On the north flank of the city walls that encircle Dubrovnik’s beautiful Old Town, near Ploce Gate, a map plots the exact points where the shells fell during the six-month Serb bombardment a decade or so ago. Two out of every three buildings in the city were damaged. Dubrovnik has now been extensively restored to its finest medieval glory and is fully open for business – despite regulations forbidding showy tourism within the extraordinary walled city.
Not even a couple of expat pubs, nor the silly maroon signs in medieval script on every street corner leading from spinal Stradun, nor the dinky lanterns over each shop, could ruin the moment. As you stride down smooth, polished Stradun, you thank your lucky stars for all the international effort that went into rebuilding this Adriatic gem. Venice sinking would be of similar tragedy and magnitude to the fate that befell Dubrovnik in 1991. But it has bounced back.